The Far-Eastern Wood Butcher: Prime cuts from the far east.

B ut why Pentel? Dunno. Felt good in the hands. When I have to draw a line against a ruled edge, it's like the line almost wants to be Drawn. (No I have not read Krenov) Suddenly, my fat fingers does not obstruct the sight anymore.   Have I tried other brands? I cannot be bothered, with this price ($5)    Then,Why 0.3mm? Unless you're an engineering draftsman, 0.5mm seemed more appropriate. With 0.7mm, you're just as good using a wood pencil. Because it is the only lead size that would fill a knifed layout line with graphite. And yes, it's from Mr Christopher Schwarz's post that I first slapped my forehead. My first impression of Mr Schwarz is a period woodworker portraying a sagely image and writing mostly about other (dead) people's writings, hiding behind a moustache. But I had to admit that he had influenced 95% of my woodwork, my choice of tools, method, beer, women etc.. and you can wipe that smirk off, Schwarz. Why does it f...

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My father gave me this slingshot about twenty years ago. Back then, thought it was simply a slingshot that was well made.  I came across it again in a drawer recently. The elastic bands, made from the inner tube of a bicycle, had long hardened and cracked in a million places. What you see here is a replacement band from ebay. You tend to slow down and look at things more closely as you get older. When I look at this slingshot, I can't help but notice the amount of attention put in it. The craftsman must firstly have sorted though the whole forest for a branch that had two twigs sprouting out opposite each other. Then he must carefully manipulate the branch while it is still green and wet. Perhaps he tied a beer bottle to shape the fork. Then the whole thing was left in the sun to dry, I imagine. With great care, the fork are rounded, and the stump nicely finished. If the person was not a woodworker, he must have been a very loving father. I cannot tell what he finish...

I am fortunate in that I have scraps of Paulownia in excess. Being slightly alkaline it does not promote rust and discourages insects. Cut four pieces to same length. Place the Top and bottom, with the sides glued on to record the chisel's taper. I highly recommend 5 min epoxy. Anything slower takes away the joy, unless you're into dollhouses. The joint should cure and withstand handling in an hour. No need to be square or tidy. We will plane later. Dried epoxy. I then sand the edge end flush and square. Bevel a piece of hard exotic FIRST. Then cut it out. Again flush the mating end on a flat sand paper. No need to be dead flat, as the epoxy will fill the clumsiest gap. Check, then mate Background: #400 sandpaper, steelwool and a little Stanley 101model maker's plane I like to camber the opening end to a slight arc, much like a scrub plane iron. Helps to guide the chisel in the sheath.

A Handsome 4-lb bookend I made from a busted Bailey Type 13 Paperweight in Beech, Steel & Aluminium More Paperweights in Cast Iron ..also, an English made note clip.

      I got this Imperial (USA) "KAMP-KING" boy scout style pocket knife from a bundle of three knives. I bought the bundle not for this knife. I decided to clean it anyway. Make it serviceable again, since it holds an awl ,a screwdriver and a can opener: much more useful than a pretty Stockman. These are called Shell Knives, apparently due to their shell type scale construction. ( c.1956 - 1988 ) I cannot describe how rewarding it is  to collect these knives.They always shed a little history when you pry open their shells. From this specimen, I can roughly tell: The previous owner either has very sweaty palms or he frequented the beach. He had curly black hair (hopefully from his head) and he always carried his knife in his pocket. (note the pocket fluff) On the other hand, drawer or basement dwellers usually includes a retired spider who invariably suffered a fatal cardiac arrest on the way the post office. The 2 strips of horse tooth shape...