Skip to main content

A review of the Pentel P203 0.3mm mechanical pencil

But why Pentel? Dunno. Felt good in the hands. When I have to draw a line against a ruled edge, it's like the line almost wants to be Drawn. (No I have not read Krenov) Suddenly, my fat fingers does not obstruct the sight anymore.
 
Have I tried other brands? I cannot be bothered, with this price ($5)
 
 Then,Why 0.3mm?
Unless you're an engineering draftsman, 0.5mm seemed more appropriate. With 0.7mm, you're just as good using a wood pencil.

Because it is the only lead size that would fill a knifed layout line with graphite. And yes, it's from Mr Christopher Schwarz's post that I first slapped my forehead. My first impression of Mr Schwarz is a period woodworker portraying a sagely image and writing mostly about other (dead) people's writings, hiding behind a moustache. But I had to admit that he had influenced 95% of my woodwork, my choice of tools, method, beer, women etc.. and you can wipe that smirk off, Schwarz.

Why does it feel so right? Aaaah...the slow but long taper. The chrome cone and the sleeve adds up to about 7/8 of an inch.
The taper even continues well into the brown plastique*
 
For comparison, below is a Pentel PG305 0.5mm. Despite sporting a drafting-pen style tip, the tip is marginally shorter.
 
 The cap has a metallic ping when dropped, so it's metal. Shown above are the typical crimped eraser and obstruction clearing needle.
 The grip is well textured, neither too rough to rub skin nor too smooth to be ineffective in greasy hands.
 The word "Pentel" appeared 4 times on the pencil:
Embossed on the plastic near the grip, embossed and white-filled at the signboard area, on a removable sticker with a barcode, and at the collar of the steel pocket clip.

The word "Japan" appeared 3 times:
At the grip with the word Pentel, on the sticker (Made in Japan), and again at the collar of the clip.

 


I made the marks with a square on a piece of pine pallet material. The surface is rough, unplanned, and warped and cupped. The difference will be apparent when the board has been handled quite a bit and the lines smudged, as in laying out of joints
 Rough specs taken by me:

Overall: 5 5/8" long (143mm approx)
Fattest diameter: 3/8" (9mm) 12 sided polygon x-section.
Weight: about 1.5 to 2 wood pencils heavy.
*Material: Plastique (plastic of mystique), steel (could be nickel plated, chrome plated, or stainless)
Color: Only Liver brown where I looked.
Clicks required to expose enough lead to clear a flexible rule: 3 clicks.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

SHARPENING WITH ARKANSAS STONES

What on earth are they? A user made box of assorted Arkansas stones. They are America's answer to: The Wales' Welsh Slate (Dragon's Tongue); The Scotch Tam O'Shanter; The English Charnley Forest stone; The Japanese Tenin Toishi; The German Thuringian Hone; The Chinese Guangzhou River bedrock; The Belgian Coticule; You get the idea. Local rocks that you use to sharpen mama's kitchen knives.   A collection of smaller pocket-sized Arkansas stones  In this entry, I will not try to tell you what you probably already know. What is the point of describing that oily rock you already have under your bench, in your drawer, in a can of kerosene? Note also, that the sharpening I describe here is best applied to woodworking in general. I am an amateur handtool woodworker. Sharpening a straight razor would be entirely another branch of science. I do not profess to know all there is to know about sharpening or Arkansas stones; I simply failed ...

An Essential Pocket Knife : The Stockman

You're so right. I should be writing about Whittlers instead of Stockman knives. Afterall, this is a wood working blog. But do you whittle the whole day? Perhaps. Can you peel an apple with a whittler? Maybe, but not as well. What if you forgot the butter knife at a picnic, or you somehow need to spey or neuter an animal in an instant?.. (ok, I'm pulling your leg, but I'm referring to the ubiquitous spey blade in your stockman.) A stockman knife (Also called your Gandpa's EDC) will do all of the above with ease, and it will WHITTLE. My shallow pocket and minute brain says that Whittlers are for collectors. Try buying a Stag handled split-backsping whittler. They are not cheap. This is one of the forty stockmen I've purchased online. The other 39 are on their way. And yes, I have issues. The stockman bug maybe. Wait till my wife sees them: I like to imagine myself as a craftsman first, woodworker second. Now you see why I bought this brand. Looks so ...

A Case for Chisels: Stanley 5000 series

“Life being very short, and the quiet hours of it few, we ought to waste none of them in reading valueless books.” -John Ruskin. Substitute the word "books" with "blogs", and perhaps you should stop reading. I did my part and you are warned. No, I can't refund 4 minutes of your life. F or the most part of my woodworking life, I've kept my loose chisels in felt lined drawers. (I mean excess chisels purchased on impulse: Those of cast steel, those of boxwood, those octagonal London snobs, those ergo grips that promises an orgasm with each mortise, the socketed, the tanged, the handle-less tangs, the long paring ones, those curious crank-necks, the basic pig stickers, the vintage ferrule-less-...you know. I know. Some folks have too many hammers or smoothing planes or trammels. I'm a chisel guy. But the ones that are constantly on the move live in a canvas tool roll. I like the look of a chisel roll, except that the edges tend to slice the...