Skip to main content

Mending a Plane's Tote & Knob: A Galoots Approach.

 
 
 
 
Sometimes, when you buy in a bundle, you get sorry looking tools like this.
 
 
and of course,
 
The tote has been dismembered into 3 portions, with the top horn missing. The knob has a befitting chunk gone too.
 
If these were beech wood, and the breaks are clean, I would have used hide glue, applied with a rubbed joint.
(A rubbed joint is this: Glue applied to 2 FLAT surface, surface is then RUBBED together, and left to dry. Clamps not required as drying hide-glue pulls joint together tightly)
 
 
Unfortunately, the previous owner of this plane continued to (savagely) use the plane in its broken-handled state, such that the joints were mashed and no long fit tight.Add to that, Rosewood is oily by nature: I resorted to epoxy. So, I flattened all mating surface with a metal file, and added the rosewood powder thus generated into the epoxy mix. (My attempt to colour the epoxy) This is just an experiment. You can see that my apprehensive and timid dosage of rosewood dust did little to colour the otherwise clear epoxy ("Araldite 5 minutes Rapid"). Which is just as well;Too much rosewood dust added = reduced joint strength.
 
Let them oooooze out, no worries here. They can serve to fill the uneven joint gaps.


Some careful carving, some shaping with a file, some sanding, and some steel wool later. (Note that the donor wood is some dense, tropical hardwood ; It's too pale to match the rosewood)


I used whatever stain I have at hand to improve the aesthetics. Scrubbed and rubbed in with a cotton swab (aka.Q-tip.)


Doesn't dye too well. Maybe a second coat followed by lacquer to seal it.

Remember to uncover the partially covered bolt recess.

Similarly, the knob get its patch. (Teak wood this time)




 
 
Next up,
 
In the next post, I will put up a pictorial on mending cast iron. Cast iron warps like crazy, and cracks easily if not properly pre-heated before welding or sufficiently cooled thereafter. Maybe I'll take up a 2 year apprenticeship in a weld/machinist shop. (Or maybe I'll just accept that some things are better used as paperweights or doorstops.)
 







Comments

Popular posts from this blog

An Essential Pocket Knife : The Stockman

You're so right. I should be writing about Whittlers instead of Stockman knives. Afterall, this is a wood working blog. But do you whittle the whole day? Perhaps. Can you peel an apple with a whittler? Maybe, but not as well. What if you forgot the butter knife at a picnic, or you somehow need to spey or neuter an animal in an instant?.. (ok, I'm pulling your leg, but I'm referring to the ubiquitous spey blade in your stockman.) A stockman knife (Also called your Gandpa's EDC) will do all of the above with ease, and it will WHITTLE. My shallow pocket and minute brain says that Whittlers are for collectors. Try buying a Stag handled split-backsping whittler. They are not cheap. This is one of the forty stockmen I've purchased online. The other 39 are on their way. And yes, I have issues. The stockman bug maybe. Wait till my wife sees them: I like to imagine myself as a craftsman first, woodworker second. Now you see why I bought this brand. Looks so

SHARPENING WITH ARKANSAS STONES

What on earth are they? A user made box of assorted Arkansas stones. They are America's answer to: The Wales' Welsh Slate (Dragon's Tongue); The Scotch Tam O'Shanter; The English Charnley Forest stone; The Japanese Tenin Toishi; The German Thuringian Hone; The Chinese Guangzhou River bedrock; The Belgian Coticule; You get the idea. Local rocks that you use to sharpen mama's kitchen knives.   A collection of smaller pocket-sized Arkansas stones  In this entry, I will not try to tell you what you probably already know. What is the point of describing that oily rock you already have under your bench, in your drawer, in a can of kerosene? Note also, that the sharpening I describe here is best applied to woodworking in general. I am an amateur handtool woodworker. Sharpening a straight razor would be entirely another branch of science. I do not profess to know all there is to know about sharpening or Arkansas stones; I simply failed

The prolific & seemingly mundane Stanley 110 block plane..

R eally?   Well, it's everywhere, check Granpa or uncle Tim's shack ( if you include copies of it by lesser tool makers) For something so abundant (well, Stanley sold them by truckloads), so common and so relatively inexpensive, I will attempt to wax some lyrical on them. By "them" I mean their design, their construction. The plane pictured above was purchased off ebay for $4.90. It looked like Joe Meatball (to borrow Patrick Leach's character) bought it, used it on some hardwood (pre silicon valley micro chipping at the edge)without first fettling the plane(unsharpened factory bevel), and put it away (in some dry place), and totally forgot about it. First off, at Five Bucks, how can you go wrong? Five bucks don't buy you a door wedge these days.   STANLEY'S SUPERIOR ADJUSTABLE HEIGHT DOOR WEDGE, TYPE 16.  1) The lever cap also serves as an ergonomic palm-rest to push the plane forward, and the oval shaped  cut-out serves as a hanging h